There are numerous reasons why I have never ridden on the Somerset Levels. Mostly they are to do with them being just a touch too far for a day ride out and back from home and then, in the year and a bit since I’ve been able to drive, they are just a touch too close to make it seem like a proper destination. This is a faintly ridiculous state of affairs, particularly since I have held the place in such high romantic standing for just shy of 30 years after reading Peter Benson’s perfect debut novel (fittingly titled simple ‘
The Levels’). Today I finally make good on the promise I made to myself all those years ago and as I pass through villages and along drove roads I am seduced by the oh-so-familiar names. Curry Rivel; Langport; Westonzoyland; Chedzoy (a place in reality, the name of a farmer in the novel, though I imagine it is actually both); the river Parrett (alongside which I ride for a while along a path imaginatively named ‘Riverside’).
The Levels is, as its name suggests, a flat, open and windswept place. Clouds file in from the south west, dark and menacing. The rain starts as I turn onto Rugg’s Drove and as it turns to a deluge I berate myself for choosing a brand new pair of white socks for the ride. Some blue sky can be seen just to the north and eventually my route turns in that direction. By the time I reach Cheddar and start climbing the gorge however it is in glorious sunshine. Rain returns for Glastonbury (along with an untimely puncture) whilst a closed road into Langport (I mostly walk through the tarmac laying on a gravelly footpath) is the piece de resistance before I manage to roll back into the car park at Muchelney Abbey.
It’s all worth it though.